Liquid Crystal 10″ Support
Creation workshop is a slicer used for DLP printers. After loading your 3D file, Creation Workshop is capable of numerous features. These include, file transformations, hollowing, nesting, slice view, gcode editing and slice setting adjustment. There is also support generation which can be done automatically or manually.
PrintFlow3D as the print manager does not have the capacity to prepare 3D object files for printing, only to print pre-sliced files loaded onto it. The file format needed for PrintFlow3D is either a .zip file (containing images and gcode) or a Creation Workshop Scene file (.cws). A 1 year license for Creation Workshop has been supplied with each Liquid Crystal 10″. You can download this software containing the latest resin profiles you need.
Note: Creation workshop is only compatible with windows
Creation Workshop software is no longer supported. Photocentric Studio is now available, for more information click here.
PrintFlow3D is an open source print manager that comes integrated with the Liquid Crystal HR and Wi-Fi enabler. It allows for a wireless connection from your PC or Mac, to the printer. It gives options to load and remove printable files, as well as wirelessly control the printer and later settings. Download this browser based PrintFlow3D connector for your operating system.
Download the USB driver for the Liquid Crystal 10″. This needs to be installed along with the software, when setting up the printer
1.Did you make the test Ring OK?
a. Yes– If Ring OK, but custom object is not OK- then it’s probably the .stl or .cws at fault. Look at what is on the platform and goto 4
b. No– If Ring not OK goto 2 and 3
2. Checking the linear runs smoothly
Press the ‘+50’ button on the control panel and see if the motor moves.
LC10 – Is the drive wobbly or does it make a grinding noise? Then the bushings are loose/misaligned. Use 1 1/2mm Allen key to loosen all of then then tighten them so that it still runs smoothly.
3. Checking the screen comes on
Press the show calibration button. If the screen doesn’t have power then look through the bottom vent in the chassis base to see if the screen driver board LED is illuminated with a green led. If this is not on then open the machine to check connections and voltages. The screen output connection on the main board supplies 11.5 – 12 volts to the screen driver board.
Screen driver board LED lights:
Green led- all OK
Red led- screen connection issue (either the ribbon or the display port have a poor connection)
No led- no power to screen driver board.
4. The screen comes on and the linear drive moves, but the print has a problem. What is on the platform?
a. The platform is clean and has no part of an object on it at all
i. Press play and run the same stl with the vat removed. Step through the first layers of the stl on the screen and check that they are no all-black layers. There has to be white joining up with white in each layer. If there is a break in the white to white in any layers then check the object on screen and support better or re-slice. It is common for objects to be positioned above the first layer on the screen. If the images are there and connected then goto 5 and 6.
b. Part of the print is missing with that part of the platform clean
i. Homing is off in one corner. Check you didn’t home badly and repeat the process but check you get white-out in the corner of the screen they lost the print. If you get white-out, but the print still fails then the vat must be up in that corner. Check the vat is not obstructed from sitting down on the screen. If it is correct then the vat must not be flat down on all four corners and goto 5.
ii. and have the platform up on one side by getting them to repeat with accurate homing. Then if it fails again this is because the vat is not down on the screen. So, release the bolts to allow it relax or we can replace the vat.
c. All the first layers are there, but there is a break after them
This means that the vat is above the screen, (goto 7) or the exposure time for the layers subsequent to the first layer are too short (resin too slow or light not on for long enough). Check you used the latest CW settings for the correct resin. The first layer will always be there as its over-exposed. If they are both correct then repeat with the side bolts on vat released (goto 7). If it still fails resin is too slow or exposure time is too short.
d. There is a failure mid-way in the print
Check the power didn’t switch off- this means electrical failure to the PC or the PC went onto standby mode.
Check the stl and check it has been supported.
If it has sliced/supported OK then release the side bolts and repeat.
5. Vat is above screen
Wear gloves to do this. Check the vat film is down on the screen by wiping the vat film with a piece of soft tissue, the film should stick down onto the screen and not pop up, if there is air gap between the screen you will see the film peel back as air gets in. This also checks there is nothing obstructing the vat and that it is screwed down tightly. If it is securely down then check the screen is slightly proud of its surrounding frame. If the vat is still away from the screen then goto 7.
6. Homing the platform is incorrect
Home correctly by starting with a clean screen and a clean vat placed on the screen. Check the vat film is down on the screen by wiping the vat film with a tissue, this also checks there are no particles trapped on or under the vat film. Loosen all three bolts on the print platform. Press home to lower the print platform. Align the platform with the glass and tighten the middle bolt. Wearing gloves press down on the middle of the platform and with the other hand tighten one of the side bolts. Then tighten the other bolt on the other side. You should see white-out in the corners of the screen showing you have made contact with the screen. Lift +10, fill with resin and lower -10. You are now homed.
7. Vat is not flat down on screen
This can be caused because the vat has warped or not been tightened after re-skinning. If it is up then there will be air between the resin and the screen and you will lose a layer. Loosen the two vat retaining bolts completely, by doing this the vat will relax and sit down better on the screen. If this doesn’t work then re-skin the vat and try again. If this doesn’t work the vat is faulty.
8. Object is sticky
Post expose in water immediately after making, for at least 10 minutes. Try to leave it for longer under water under UV light. Failing that clean with IPA.
9. Pi issues
File won’t delete from memory stick: It won’t allow deletion of files with characters in names (eg. * [list of not allowed symbols is in the instructions]) and will only allow one file to open – need to delete file using Printflow on pc.
Software won’t boot: SD card may be corrupted. Replace SD card.
Stuck in boot loop: SD card corrupted. Replace SD card.
10. Software issues
Check if you have the latest version of the Printflow software – If not connect to the internet (preferably via ethernet cable) and it will update automatically. If it takes an excessive amount of time (eg many hours) or crashes, the SD card may be corrupt.
If you can’t see your file on a memory stick, it probably has not been saved correctly. See instructions take care to check that export to .csw box in Creation Workshop is ticked and save the file before slicing.
If you have problems running Creation Workshop it may be better to save your Creation Workshop file in a directory other than C. Ensure you have disabled you firewall. Even if your computer does not recognise the screen resolution of the printer it may do it automatically, just check the red grid display screen is not distorted.
11. File does not show in menu?
Before you save and slice the file in Creation Workshop, make sure to tick in the “Export to CWS” in Configure > Configure Slicing Profile.
Without this ticked the file will not save properly and your printer won’t see the file. The USB stick should be formated in standard FAT32 format.